How to insert a busk
INSERTING SPOON, BROAD and FLEXIBLE BUSKS
Your busk comes in two halves, the clasps are usually configured to have two closer together these are always at the bottom. The studs are the left hand side and the clasps are the right.
I have found that the busk provides a much better finish and is less likely to wear through the fabric if it is fabric covered before insertion. To do this cut two rectangles of fabric (either interlining or lining) 4 times the width of the busk and at least one inch longer. This method also gives you a chance to practice busk sewing techniques before moving onto possibly expensive facing fabrics.
Draw a line along the centre of each rectangle. Lay the right hand clasp busk half (clasps uppermost as illustrated) along this line leaving an equal gap top and bottom. Using a chalk pencil or similar make small marks at 90 degrees to the line to indicate the position of the clasps. You may wish to use fray check or glue along these gaps before cutting, otherwise carefully cut a straight line between each of the small gaps.
Fold your piece of fabric in half and inset the busk so that the clasps protrude through the holes. Pin carefully in place. Using a zipper foot carefully sew the busk half into the fabric along its straight edge.
For the studded half of the busk place this along the line marked on the other piece of fabric leaving an equal gap top and bottom and matching it by comparing it to the placement of the clasp half. You will find that the studs are closer to one edge this is the outer edge and should be next to the line. Fold the fabric over the busk half pinning carefully in place.
Using the zipper foot sew along the straight edge keeping the busk tightly within its fabric envelope. The busk studs should now be seen as lumps in the fabric, if you wish use fray check or glue apply it over these bumps at this stage. Take an awl and carefully work a small hole through the fabric over the stud. This can be a little tricky and requires some patience but with practice you can work the studs through breaking the minimal number of fibres. Push the stiletto through the hole and work the hole until it is about 2mm across. Using you finger tips you should now be able to work the studs through the fabric. If they resist too much work the hole a little more with the awl.
Select the centre front fabric pieces for each half and lay the prepared busk pieces with their respective halves and double check that you have the busk the right way up and with it’s correct half (it is very easy