By Frances GrimbleThe Lady s Stratagem is a collection of early instructions on what was perceived as a female duty: To be agreeable. This required meticulous attention to appearance, manners, and management of social events. The core sources are six important French manuals, newly translated into period English. These are supplemented by excerpts from 23 rare English, French, and American publications.Fashion & Costume. Detailed information is imparted on choosing clothing appropriate to each time of day, and to the wearer s appearance, age, and social position. It is illustrated by 29 halftone fashion plates. Instructions are given for laundering, dyeing, and storing garments.Sewing & Needlework. Step-by-step directions are given for making 13 styles of stays; for most kinds of women s garments, trimmings, and accessories; and for mending and alterations. Comprehensive instructions are also given for making hats, turbans, and caps, including 52 trimmings; for knitting a wide variety of garments and accessories; and for embroidery, with 25 patterns. There is no comparable English-language needlework reference for the 1820s, period or modern.Beauty & Hygiene. An intimate picture of daily life is drawn by 116 recipes for beauty treatments, cosmetics, and perfumes. Particulars include how women bathed, cleaned their teeth, laced their stays, walked, and gestured. Practical explanations are furnished for eight hairstyles.Manners & Customs. Entertaining descriptions are given of the proper behavior for all social occasions, including morning visits, card parties, balls, and the art of conversation.Table of Contents (readable with Adobe Acrobat)Author BiographyFrances Grimble is the author of After a Fashion: How to Reproduce, Restore, and Wear Vintage Styles, Reconstruction Era Fashions: 350 Sewing, Needlework, and Millinery Patterns 1867 1868,Fashions of the Gilded Age, Volume 1: Undergarments, Bodices, Skirts, Overskirts, Polonaises, and Day Dresses 1877 1882, Fashions of the Gilded Age, Volume 2: Evening, Bridal, Sports, Outerwear, Accessories, and Dressmaking 1877 1882, Bustle Fashions 1885 1887: 41 Patterns with Fashion Plates and Suggestions for Adaptation, Directoire Revival Fashions 1888 1889: 57 Patterns with Fashion Plates and Suggestions for Adaptation, The Voice of Fashion: 79 Turn-of-the-Century Patterns with Instructions and Fashion Plates, and The Edwardian Modiste: 85 Authentic Patterns with Instructions, Fashion Plates, and Period Sewing Techniques.Frances Grimble has substantial formal education in researching social history and in clothing design. In 1974 she began making historical reproductions for periods from the Renaissance into the 1920s; she tries to schedule regular sewing time in addition to that required by her writing projects. Since 1972, she has collected vintage clothing and accessories from the late 18th century into the mid 20th.Publication Data8 1/2 x 11 inches quality paperback755 pages98 line drawings, 36 halftonesGlossary, bibliography, and indexISBN: 978-0-9636517-7-8LCCN: 2008920010
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