By Frances Grimble
Bustle Fashions 1885 1887: 41 Patterns with Fashion Plates and Suggestions for Adaptation contains a wide selection of high-quality women s clothing patterns from the height of the bustle era. During these years, the waist was flattered by a closely fitted bodice, considerable fullness below the waist in back, and ample skirt draperies. Dresses worn outside the home consisted of either two main garments (a long polonaise worn over a skirt) or of three (a bodice and an overskirt or draperies worn over a skirt). The waist was further emphasized by long bodices, often pointed in front and back; vest and plastron bodice fronts; overskirts showing much of the skirt front; and skirts with vertical applied panels.
This book contains practical patterns for undergarments and nightgowns; wrappers and tea gowns; bodices, skirts, and overskirts; complete ensembles for street and house wear; and outer jackets, coats, dolmans, and cloaks. The patterns are drawn from rare original issues of the magazine The Voice of Fashion and 1885 to 1887 editions of the pattern book The National Garment Cutter. They were used by both amateur and professional dressmakers to make up the mainstream styles of the day, and are very similar to patterns published by Butterick. These patterns are enlarged with apportioning scales, printed versions of which are provided in this book, along with step-by-step instructions. Apportioning scales are special rulers that enable you to draft custom sizes, from queen size to doll size, without doing arithmetic.Most patterns in this book are accompanied by supplementary illustrations with detailed descriptions, drawn from Butterick s Delineator magazine. Each of these supplements shows optional style variations that can be produced by using flat pattern alteration techniques, or merely by substituting a garment section from a different pattern in this book or draping an overskirt pattern differently. The descriptions include information on construction and fabrics. Edited selections from fashion columns in The Delineator, Harper s Bazar, and other publications add information on style trends. Also drawn from The Delineator are instructions and illustrations for 208 trimmings and 91 accessories. In addition, a substantial chapter on dressmaking, assembled from articles in Godey s Lady s Book, gives detailed information on making garments for the second half of the 1880s. The book s glossary explains period fabric names and dressmaking terms.Bustle Fashions 1885 1887 is a rich pattern source for readers who recreate period clothing for theater and film; living history; Old West and single-action shooting events; steampunk and goth outfits; bridal parties; or dolls. It s a valuable identification and dating tool for costume historians and vintage clothing collectors. And it will spark ideas for fashion designers. Contents
Bustle Fashions 1885 1887 contains patterns, instructions, fashion plates, and adaptation suggestions for:
11 complete ensembles. Each includes a pattern for a polonaise and a skirt; or a bodice, a skirt, and an overskirt; or a princess dress. Parts of ensembles can be mixed to create different styles5 separate bodices2 separate skirts and 1 separate overskirt3 jackets, 3 dolmans, 3 coats, and 1 cloak2 pairs of drawers, 2 chemises, 1 undervest, 1 pair of combinations, and 1 nightgown3 wrappers or tea gowns1 apron and 1 dusting cap
Only $1.19 per pattern! Far more economical than buying separate patterns for each garment in an outfit (consisting of an ensemble, undergarments, and outerwear)
This 446-page book also includes:
Apportioning scales (drafting rulers), which enable you to easily enlarge patterns to your unique measurementsStep-by-step instructions for enlarging the patternsQuotes from period sources, on styles, construction, materials, trimmings, and colorsA 23-page, illustrated manual on 1880s dressmakingInstructions for draping different overskirts without patternsInstructions and illustrations for 208 trimmings, appropriate for day and evening ensembles, bodices, sleeves, and skirtsInstructions and illustrations for 91 accessories, including aprons, bags, bonnets, chatelaines, chemisettes, collars, fichus, hats, jabots, muffs, and plastrons
Table of Contents (readable with Adobe Acrobat)
Index (readable with Adobe Acrobat)
8 1/2 x 11 inches quality paperback
Glossary, bibliography, index, metric conversion table
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