Pelisse (coat) which can be made as a Spencer (jacket) by omitting the skirt, with 7 collar, 4 short sleeve and one long sleeve options. The Pelisse and Spencer, which were generally worn over another
gown, have optional collars and a shortened bodice
which ends under the bust.
The front bodice can be made with darts or gathers.
The back bodice is made of two pieces, the center back bottom of which is gathered
on a lining piece. The sleeves can be made with a two piece sleeve consisting
of a short sleeve on top of the long sleeve, or the long sleeve can be used
The bodice can be made with no collar or a choice of 7 collars, some of
which can be combined for a two collar look. The collars are a small and large
rounded collar, a squared collar, a cut back collar, a stand and flare collar, a
standing collar, and a cape collar.
Views B, C, and D short sleeves are bound at
the bottom with a band. The long sleeve is finished at the wrist by a small band
and two additional bands can be added above it for a gathered look on the forearm.
Both the Pelisse and Spence have a separate belt with an overlapping
front. The Pelisse has front, side back, and back skirt pieces. The back skirt
attaches to the bodice with 6 pleats or it can be gathered. The back of the skirt
is slightly trained. The short sleeves have several options. View A is a sleeve
with V notches.
View B has a sleeve with optional cut outs and bows adorning
the sleeve. This sleeve can be made without cutouts (View C).
View D has an
extra puffy sleeve that can be made plain, gathered or corded. Some of the
seams in these garments are piped and the collars and belt can be piped as well.
The skirt of the Pelisse is not lined but a lining can be added by the maker. No
layouts or yardage are provided for the lining. The maker has the option of cutting
the bodice front so it overlaps or just meets. These garments fit closely and
it is recommended that fitting should be done over any garments to be worn
Fabric: Cotton, Linen, Wool, or Silk. Drapey fabric is not recommended.
Plain, figured, striped. Thick fabric will complicate the double
sleeves. Lining: Cotton, Linen, or Silk. Muslin fabric is traditional but some
of the pieces may show their linings so it is advised that the lining matches the
fashion fabric. Interfacing: Hair canvas or medium linen.
cotton kitchen twine for piping, or piping can be bought premade. Closures:
Buttons, hooks and eyes, frogs, toggles, or ribbon bows as desired.
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